A good egg
Kate Underwood, Food Editor
I find it hard to imagine a culinary world without the existence of eggs. These life-giving bundles dubbed ‘the everyday super food’ are one of those rare, cornerstone ingredients that just keep on giving. The simple fact is that an egg can begin, entirely encapsulate, or finish a meal.
We have so many delicious things to thank our (preferably free range) laying hens for. From the trivial and seductive entertainment of a runny yolk, the visual appeal of pink pickled eggs (made using beetroot), to the challenging dark hue of the Chinese Century egg – where eggs are preserved for weeks in a salt and clay mix.
I’m forever fascinated by the structural integrity of eggs. The way the white has the ability to produce foam on a whiskey sour, lift chocolate mousse to ethereal heights, and provide strength and subtlety to the perfect pavlova. Inside lies the yolk, the gooey, unctuous pocket of gold. A vibrant bundle that delivers richness, colour, and viscosity to hollandaise, mayonnaise, lemon curd, custard, crème brûlée, and traditional carbonara.
My go-to eggs are jammy. Boiled for approximately six minutes (medium-sized) and then plunged into cold water, resulting in a soft yolk that is jiggly and luscious, held together by a taut white exterior. I like them on toast, sprinkled with sea salt flakes, draped with an anchovy, a dollop of chilli oil, or a blob of Kewpie mayo. I love how the slightly loose yellow centre creates a sauce of its own, leaving a puddle to be mopped up. Ramen eggs are another favourite, highly seasoned umami bombs that sit overnight in a sweet soy liquid with vinegar and spices.
I often crave the luxurious swirl of a well-seasoned scramble, cooked quickly yet patiently, by pulling the eggs towards the centre of the pan and repeating ’til *just* set. To be eaten swiftly, before they overcook, cool down or congeal. But regardless of the time of day, when I eat eggs, I almost always feel good.
Nutritionally eggs are an excellent (and affordable) protein source, containing vitamins A, B, D, and E, alongside minerals from amino acids, sodium, iodine, selenium, and calcium, to omega-3 fats and antioxidants. It’s this diverse nutrient offering and combination that makes eggs so unique and it would require lots of different foods to gain the same nutrient cocktail.
Eggs are ubiquitous in brunch, proven by their compulsory presence on menus and the obsession with a certain dish involving eggs on eggs. The beloved Eggs Benedict, where poached eggs are smothered in a buttery egg yolk sauce cooked gently over heat until thick and creamy. Controversial, maybe, but I don’t always love an eggs bene. I often find it too much, too rich, and dare I say, too eggy.
However, the power to sway me lies in the hollandaise, one that leverages enough acidity to balance out the butter and the yolk. I appreciate when there is plenty of lemon or vinegar and have enjoyed versions involving chipotle, tarragon, the nutty burnt butter, and even one infused with espresso. After many bene attempts, I’ve learnt it helps to order hollandaise on the side, to control the richness you endure.