Courageous creatives
Kate Underwood / Food Editor /@relishthememory / @eat.newzealand
It’s easy to forget that cooking is a deeply personal pursuit. Perhaps the most surprising yet important ingredient required to prepare food for others is courage. If you’ve ever taken the time to cook a meal for someone, you’ll know what I mean. That silent sense of vulnerability that comes when you serve up a bowl of love, sweat, and fears.
For some cooks, chefs, bakers, or pâtissiers, their career trajectory stems from a genuine desire to feed people. It’s a gentle and edible form of generosity.
Over the last twelve months, I’ve witnessed many courageous individuals sharing a piece of themselves with this city. Often in ways less conventional than the standard café or restaurant route.
It feels right to start with undoubtedly one of the most successful small creative businesses in Ōtautahi. Known by many as ‘CBA’, Cakes By Anna has become a permanent part of this city’s tapestry. Anna Worthington and her bespoke no-fuss, always moist, absolutely no-fondant cakes were pivotal in the post-quake city revival. Last month she celebrated 10 years in business. An insane feat for a single-handed operation that has helped mark precious moments through thousands of cakes.
Kate Grater (nee – Serkin) started The Pierogi Joint in 2014 after missing her comfort food from home. She grew up in Canada with these Eastern European dumplings, thanks to Polish and Ukrainian ex-pats bringing aspects of their culture through food. Kate deeply believes that food is joy, and she gets the biggest high from connecting with people over her dumplings. With a new pierogi machine, she’s building a strong customer base and pops up at various locations and events.
Jaeju is a Korean-inspired food truck owned by Cian Curtin (ex-head chef of Hali Bistro & Bar) and his partner Yebitna Hong. They spent a year in Korea making kimchi, gochujang, and mandu (Korean dumplings) with Yebtina’s mother. Jaeju (Jeju) means skill or craft in Korean, and their current offering is the first step towards their dream of a restaurant. Hunt them out across the city for a saewoo (shrimp) burger and try the kimari – beer-battered seaweed rolls.
Sarah Chin started Gula after finding herself desperately homesick after the first lockdown. She wanted people to know more about Malaysian-inspired flavours and to approach them with an open mind. On Sundays, Sarah is at The Works Market serving durian macarons, iced pandan lattes, and sambal pork pies with butter spiral-laminated pastry – go early; it sells out fast!
Pastry chef Corentin Esquenet from Butter creates exquisite French treats. His commitment to excellence and engaging Instagram presence helps educate and inspire. Having just moved into a new kitchen on Tuam Street, you can experience his warmth and passion first-hand when you collect your pre-ordered tarts from his cute window.
What all of these creators do so well is allow us to experience their personal stories through the food they serve. Right now, in Ōtautahi, supporting these brave souls – and their edible endeavours – has never been more delicious.