Hugs in a bowl
As the temperature plummets, Guest Food Editor Kate Underwood finds herself craving a steaming hot bowl of umami-laden broth with springy noodles and an array of interesting toppings. Here are some of the unexpected places she heads to across the city when her soul needs a hug, and her heart wants some full-flavoured edible escapism.
THE SICHUAN KITCHEN
Boxed Quarter, 270 Saint Asaph Street
Tucked deep in the back of Boxed Quarter, this excellent establishment is serving up some of the more authentic Sichuan cuisine in Ōtautahi. It’s a true family affair, run by a talented woman called Jennifer Chen alongside her parents, who help in the kitchen. ‘Chen’s special’ noodle soup with beef brisket is what you must come for, where meltingly tender chunks of beef, bouncy noodles, and a chilli oil slick sit atop a deeply-flavoured, beef-forward broth. If you’re new to Sichuan, it’s a popular cuisine of Southwestern China, distinguished by the use of Sichuan peppercorns which provide a distinct numbing sensation on your tongue. When combined with chilli, they deliver an invigorating burn factor. Regardless of what you order, don’t miss the fresh cucumber salad. It’s salty, garlicky, and vinegar-y, and delivers a welcome crunch and a cooling reprieve from the inevitable tongue tingling. There are vegetarian and gluten-friendly dishes (opt for rice noodles), plus less fiery options such as wontons in light chicken soup. But if (like me) you’re of the indecisive persuasion, order the combo, where you’ll try three small dishes, including dan dan noodles, boiled dumplings, and the spicy beef soup. Keep an eye on the $10 daily lunch special, which changes throughout the week, and don’t forget to help yourself to water; you’ll need it.
HELLO VIETNAM
Shop 5-8/235 Riccarton Road
There’s a uniquely convivial and un-fussy atmosphere that awaits you at Hello Vietnam. With its giant tables, flashing neon lights, and service with a smile, this place is perfect for a casual date night, family birthday, student BYO, or solo bowl of beef phở or noodle soup. The special beef phở is the dish for the daring here, served with a variety of beef parts, including tendon, beef brisket, meatballs, oxtail, and even honeycomb tripe. But if that’s not your thing, opt for the medium-rare beef version, where a deeply savoury broth with notes of ginger, star anise, and fish sauce submerges a giant mound of rice noodles alongside bean sprouts, fresh coriander, lemon, hoisin sauce, and sriracha. It’s arguably the biggest, best-value noodle soup in the city, guaranteed to satisfy any comfort craving.
RAMEN X MUSIC Fumetan
351 Riccarton Road
When all I want is a rich and unctuous bowl of ramen, Fumetan is where I go. They have charming service, and their clear file menu houses options including the pork and chicken broth tonkotsu, a soy-based shoyu, and the miso sesame vege tan. The tonkotsu miso ramen with chashu or BBQ pork is my pick, especially the version with butter and corn. I love the fact there’s a piano in the dining room, a plastic model ramen bowl on display filled with counterfeit noodles, and how you can order extra vege stock if your broth gets a little thick. My advice – don’t shy away from the toppings! Opt for extra menma (bamboo shoots); always an egg and shiitake, too. This is the closest I’ve experienced in Christchurch to the prized bowls of Japan, just don’t go on a Friday – they’re closed.
EDEN ALLEY
233 Riccarton Road and 35F Riccarton Road
Eden Alley has built a strong reputation as a Riccarton Road dining (and Karaoke) destination, with two locations on the strip. The menu provides an intriguing balance of familiar and lesser-known Korean dishes, many with that distinctive kimchi funk. I often order the bibimbap (rice with vege toppings) and appreciate their saucy fried chicken. But after being introduced to the ‘Sundubu Jjigae’, a soft tofu soup with egg, on dark wintery days, this is the dish that hits right. The fiery red broth is served bubbling hot in a stoneware bowl, with a vivid hum of heat and the soothing combination of a gooey egg and jelly-like tofu. Made with or without beef, it comes with steamed rice and banchan – small complimentary side dishes. It’s a simple stew that will both nourish and delight.