Women in food
Kate Underwood, Food Editor
The last few months have sparked some inspiring moments for women in this country, particularly in food. On the back of Jacinda Arden’s poignant valedictorian speech, International Women’s Day, and the announcement of Cuisine Magazine’s Top 50 Influential & Inspiring Women in Food & Drink (WIFDNZ), I got thinking about the intersection between women and food.
It’s exciting to see a space dedicated to celebrating the collective achievement of women who work across the food sector in New Zealand. When Cuisine Magazine editor Kelli Brett created the WIFDNZ, part of her intention was to build a supportive and connected community.
In my realm of work, I’m lucky to be surrounded by hundreds of inspiring women who are thriving across all levels of the culinary chain. I’d genuinely fill this entire column trying to list them all. But to give you an idea, there are butchers, sheep and beef farmers, hunters, winemakers, distillers, market gardeners, food scientists, food waste heroes, entrepreneurs, chefs, and hospitality legends.
Even the more unseen roles tend to be filled by women, such as farmers’ market managers, event coordinators, community leaders, volunteers, seed savers, gardeners, picklers, and so many more. From my experience observing the food system, these women are often the glue that keeps it all functioning or those with a conviction to gather people together around the table.
Women, and those who identify as women, often embody a deep desire to nurture by providing nourishment through kai. I personally believe the feminine energy that surrounds food is something that can’t always be seen but, instead, felt. It is often affiliated with traits such as love, receptivity, compassion, and care.
Both in and out of the kitchen, our socio-cultural food narrative is entwined in gender roles and identity. Despite a public façade dominated by male chefs, women’s presence in food preparation and home kitchens has existed for generations. There’s a sense of nostalgia weaved into it too. Nothing compares to the comfort of your grandmother’s chicken soup. My nana Merle is that for me. A true nurturer, a woman of World War Two, and a highly successful nurse who loved to cook. Her baking tins were always full, and that was her love language.
In line with a genuine global tradition, many of NZ’s most-loved restaurants are named after women – from Rita to Lilian, Ada to Fleurs Place, Ima and Coco’s Cantina. A nod to mother figures, who are often the first strong culinary influence. Without even setting foot inside, I assume these spaces are innately warm and inviting – where I’ll feel cared for.
I’m looking forward to seeing the depth and diversity of women in the world of food continue to expand. The more wāhine we see represented, the more we can collectively dispel any pre-conceived narratives and focus on celebrating the varied and valuable role femininity plays within food and beyond.