Cherry on top
Kate Underwood
I’ve gorged myself on cherries this season, and I don’t regret it one bit or one pit. I find myself enamoured by their striking colour and glam aesthetic. Their joyous association with Christmas is no doubt part of their charm. It’s the eating process that I love most. There’s a unique satisfaction in daintily picking one up and holding it above your mouth by its stem, anticipating the flavour explosion. Taut, smooth, almost waxy skin rests on your tongue, and then, the first bite. A gratifying crunch like no other. As your teeth sink in, they burst with intense sweet and tart juice. A few more chews and the concentration required to battle the stone to extract every piece of luscious flesh. Spit the pit somewhere quickly, then repeat.
Fun fact – the cherry is referred to as a fleshy drupe (another name for stone fruit), and there are both sweet and sour cultivars. I’m grateful that Aotearoa grows great cherries, with around 90 per cent grown in Central Otago, while the rest are from Hawkes Bay or other parts of the South Island.
I like to toast a slab of gingerbread in a pan with butter and top it with chunks of blue cheese, chopped fresh cherries, a drizzle of honey, and sea salt flakes. It’s inspired by Cakes By Anna, and its salty, sweet, sour, and savoury funk means it hits all the right notes. The Al Brown ‘best ever gingerbread’ is my go-to recipe here.
I often have intentions of baking with them, but they don’t always survive long enough. With the less-than-perfect remnants, I have been tempted to make cherry clafoutis – a nostalgic custardy dessert that utilises overripe fruit without spending hours in the hot kitchen. It’ll trick your guests into thinking you made a big effort, but is incredibly simple to make. I spotted Ōtautahi pastry chef Corentin of Butter making one on his Instagram over summer – so it must be good.
At the Clyde Farmers’ Market a few years ago, I discovered a jar of pickled cherries, and they made a darling addition to any cheeseboard. At Gatherings, they have featured them in several desserts. My partner, Plabita Florence, the chef/owner of Forest Restaurant in Auckland, makes the most delicious cherry pit vinegar. Pits saved from food prep are soaked in vinegar, which, over time, release a zingy and intensely almond-essence flavour.
Last year, food waste hero Wendy Zhou (of Perfectly Imperfect) managed to divert hundreds of kilograms of giant cherries headed for landfill after being deemed ‘too big’ for export. Thanks to her team, the cherries were redirected to beverage manufacturers, chefs, and families at discounted rates.
It’s always exciting when it’s been warm enough for stone fruit to ripen. When the golden peaches, orangey apricots, blushing purple-blue plums, and all their relatives fill stores like shimmering baubles, for me, the cherry always comes out on top.